Ancient Scottish History Neolithic Bronze Age Skara Brae Maeshowe Jarlshof

Orkney Neolithic Villages Skara Brae Maeshowe Ring to Brodgar

The Orkney Islands are choc full of historic sites - most of them at least 5,000 years old. West Mainland stretches from Kirkwall to Stromness and everything north and south of those towns. It has a concentration of the most famous Neolithic sites plus many more less well known ones that are still accessible.

This is only really the tip of the iceberg, many sites have still to be excavated and explored. The sites range from the well organised, famous Historic Scotland sites like Skara Brae and Maeshowe, to a range of free entry sites and less well known private sites often accessible on footpaths. These can be real fun such as at Tomb of the Eagles where you have to lie on your back and pull yourself into the tomb.

Mine Howe was first opened officially in 1946 although many local people already knew about it. It was reopened in 1999 and received much media attention, especially as The Time Team held a four-week excavation in 2000. The site was confirmed as being Iron Age in origin and consists of two steep staircases down to a subterranean chamber with a high corbelled roof. There are also two side chambers. Theories as to its purpose have been varied and it is believed there would have been a building above ground connected to it and that it would have had a spiritual purpose. Find out more about Minehowe and the 2000 Time Team excavations from our Orkney East Mainland page.

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Shetland Archaeological Sites Jarlshof Old Scatness Broch Mousa Broch

There is a cluster of remarkable archaeological sites in South Mainland Shetland that have remained amazingly intact over the years. Most notable among these are Jarlshof, Mousa Broch and Old Scatness Broch and Iron Age Village.

Early evidence of settlement in Lerwick, Shetland's main town, is clear on the south west side of Lerwick at the Broch of Clickimin that dates back 3000 years. A broch is an iron age tower that would have been a fortified refuge for several families. The site was first settled by a Bronze Age family who built a farmhouse on the site and its remains are still visible on the north west side of the broch. The broch is a thick dry stone walled structure that was originally about 15 metres high. Another feature to look out for on the causeway leading to the broch is the stone slab in which two footprints were carved. No-one really knows how or why these came about.

Fetlar is another of the Shetland Islands that has been inhabited for over 5,000 years and there are still archaeological remains as evidence of Stone Age, Pict and Norse settlement. Fetlar's has several claims to fame including being the home of the pioneering Sir William Watson Cheyne who helped Lister develop antiseptic surgery as well as providing Time Team with two Norse excavation sites.

The recently opened Shetland Museum is the centre for Shetland heritage and culture. Through twelve themed zones exhibits and artefacts together tell the story of the Shetland Islands from its creation and geology, human habitation from 5000 BC right through Pictish, Viking and medieval periods to the present day.

Calanais Callanish Standing Stones Ancient Neolithic Sites Lewis Outer Hebrides

In the centre of Lewis is a concentration of prehistoric and Iron Age sites. The most stunning of these is the Calanais (Callanish) Standing Stones near Loch Roag. Fifty stones are arranged to form what looks like a Celtic cross from an aerial view; all hewn from the beautiful pale Lewisian gneiss (the oldest rock on earth). These are thought to have been an important centre of power for the people who laid them 3,000 years BC. Later a chambered cairn was built in the middle of the central stone circle. Those in tune with the spiritual power of the stones can still feel it today. Many changes have happened to the land here as when records started being made in the 19th century peat was known to cover a large proportion of the stones until the peat was dug away.

Calanais is a good place to start exploring Lewis' ancient history and the exhibition and accompanying guide book are useful in giving you more background to the stones and their interpretation. The main Calanais site and visitor centre is signposted from the A858. There is a car park and visitor centre with a cafeteria and shop with an exhibition on the stones.

Around Calanais there are eleven other standing stone sites, both north and south of Calanais. The Calanais guide book has a map of where these are. To the south east of Calanais are Cnoc Ceann a'Gharraidh and Cnoc Fhilibhir Bheag - also known as Callanish II and III respectively. When you drive down the lane to the Calanais Visitor Centre you can see one of these on a hillock on the eastern side of the loch. Check the links right for more information.

Further up the A858 is Dun Charlabhaigh Broch. This is a remarkably intact Iron Age broch set on a hillside overlooking ruined blackhouses that were likely to have been built from stone from the broch itself. You can actually get into the remains of the broch which still stands to 30 feet tall in some areas. You might have to scramble on your hands and knees though. This would have been a fortified dwelling for several families and their animals. There is an unobstrusive visitor centre near the car park that has interpretation information and souvenirs. Admission is free but donations are welcomed.

The Black Isle Pictish Sites & Groam House Museum

The Black Isle, a peninsula between the Beauly Firth, Moray Firth and the Cromarty Firth north of Inverness, has a concentration of prehistoric sites. The best way to find out where these are is by visiting The Groam House Musuem.

The Groam House Museum has a fantastic display of intricately carved Pictish standing stones including the famous Rosemarkie Cross Slab. An introductory video shows you where the Pictish sites can be found in the area. There are activities for children including rubbings of Pictish symbols or a chance to play a harp that would have been used by Pictish people. There is also a shop selling themed gifts and publications.

Opening Hours: May-Sept Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 2-4.30pm; Oct-Apr Sat and Sun 2-4pm or by prior appointment. Groam House Museum, High Street, Rosemarkie, Ross-shire, Scotland IV10 8UF. Tel: 01381 620961 or tel/fax 01381 621730. Email groamhouse@ecosse.net

Forres Pictish Historic Sites

The area around Forres in Morayshire has a good collection of Pictish sites.

At the eastern end of the town is the Suenos Stone, a 9th century Pictish standing stone that stands at over 22 feet tall. It is engraved with an intricate array of figures depicting a battle. It is the largest known Pictish sculptured stone in Europe.

At the bottom of Cluny Hill is The Witches Stone which is also thought to date from Pictish times which would have been an altar to the Sun God. It also marks the spot where one of three barrels which were rolled down the hill with witches in them came to rest.

Clava Cairns - Neolithic Burial Chambers

Just south of Culloden is the less visited Clava Cairns, the site of one of the best preserved Bronze Age burial sites in Scotland.

Also known as Bulnaraun of Clava there are two passage graves and one ring-cairn made out of water-worn pebbles and boulders and encircled by standing stones. Their passageways appear to be aligned in such a way that the midwinter sunset shines a shaft of light in the chambers. Some of the stone of the cairns has been carved with cup and ring markings.

They are thought to have been used for elite members of a tribe for a short period rather than by a large community. Their style is particular to this area of Scotland rather than the larger Neolithic tombs found in other parts of the county.

You can find the site on a minor road off the B9006 from Inverness, or the B851 from Grantown-on-Spey. Historic Scotland produce a useful downloadable interpretation leaflet, the "Visitor's Guide to Balnuaran of Clava", available from their website, link right.