Knockan Crag NNR
Trails and activities through Northwest Highlands Geopark explain the geology
The mountains are stunning but would almost have been covered in the Ice Age
The 19th century Highland Clearances hit Sutherland hardThe North West Highlands is one of the remotest parts of Scotland. The Highland Clearances hit this area hard and since then much of the land area has been unpopulated.
Much of the landscape in the north west Highlands is stunning. High rocky mountain peaks, peatlands and hundreds of lochs and sea lochs intersecting the land. There are several areas important for wildlife and fishing, hillwalking and climbing are popular activities.
Sutherland is a former county that covered the vast majority of the North West Highlands as well as across to the east to include the Ross and Cromarty area. Many people still associate the north west part of the highlands as being Sutherland. This is a largely unpopulated area with small settlements being the main services points north of Ullapool. Its landscape is dominated by high rocky mountains cloaked in wet bog with hundreds of freshwater lochs in between.
Sutherland has a forlorn air about it and the feeling of loss is still palpable in the wilderness that now exists. The Highland Clearances of the 19th century hit Sutherland more than anywhere else in the Highlands when crofters were forced from their homes by greedy lairds who saw more profit in sheep rearing. The familiar story of poverty, starvation and the dispersal of clans followed that meant that many Highlanders sailed across the world in search of work and a new life.
This is one of the remotest parts of Britain and if you like peace, tranquillity and stunning views then you're sure to love the Sutherland area. It offers a wealth of walking, climbing and outdoor activities opportunities as well as a varied and interesting geology and wildlife.
At the southern end of Loch Shin in the centre of the Sutherland area is Lairg. For this part of the Highlands it is a reasonably sized town with several shops, cafes, accommodation and services. It is also has a railway station.
There are various sites to interest the visitor if you've had your fill of wilderness. Ferrycroft Countryside Visitor Centre has information about the area from the ice age through to the present day including the impact of the local hydroelectric scheme. It also serves as a Tourist Information centre. An Archaeological Trail starts at the centre and takes you uphill through Ferry Wood. There is often a programme of events organised by the Ranger Service including nature walks and children's activities. Ferrycroft Countryside Centre & Tourist Information Centre, Lairg, Sutherland IV27 4TP. Tel: 01549 402160. Fax: 01549 402160.
Fishing is popular on Loch Shin which stretches for 18 miles north west from the town. Angling throughout Sutherland is managed by Lairg Angling Club. Check their website, link right, for more information on where to fish and where to get permits.
Kylesku is a small settlement 33 miles north of Ullapool on the shores of two sea lochs, Loch Glendhu and Loch Glencoul. The most striking feature of Kylesku, apart from the wonderful scenery, is the Kylesku bridge opened in 1984 by the Queen. It makes a graceful sweep over the two lochs and effectively made travel to this north western part of Scotland a whole lot easier although it did mean that the former ferry was put out of business.
Boat trips run from Kylesku to Eas-Coul-Aulin waterfall at the head of Loch Glencoul. It is Britain's highest waterfall at 650 feet and is four times higher than Niagara Falls. Boat trips are run by Statesman Cruises (Tel: 01971 502345) who also run trips to Kerracher Gardens open from mid May to mid September and only accessible by boat.
Sutherland is largely covered by the North West Highlands Geopark. Stretching from the Summer Isles just off the Ullapool coast all the way up to the north coast of Scotland, this area is noted for its varied geology including some of the oldest rocks found on Earth like Lewisian Gneiss.
Visit the Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve visitor centre to get more information on the area and where the children can get involved in rock related activities. You can follow the Rock Route which takes you through the Geopark and identifies particular rock formations that help tell the story of the creation of the Earth.
For more information on events or things to do in the Geopark check the website, link right or contact North West Highlands Geopark, Culag Building, Lochinver, Sutherland IV27 4LE. Tel: 01571 844000. Fax: 01571 844000. Email: info@northwest-highlands-geopark.
The Sutherland area is rich in wildlife which owes a lot to the geology of the area. There are three National Nature Reserves: Knockan Crag, Inchnadamph and Loch a'Mhuilinn.
Knockan Crag and Inchnadamph are covered by the Geopark above. Inchnadampth is a series of caves, tunnels and underground streams including the Bone Caves - so called as human remains dating back 4,500 years along with a bear tooth and fragments of reindeer antler; both animals that no longer occur in Britain. Loch a'Mhuilinn is again based on ancient geology highlighted by the Geopark, but is also a reserve of scattered lochs and windswept woodland including Britain's most northerly oakwood.
Handa Island, just off the mainland near Scourie, is an important island for colonies of seabirds and is managed by Scottish Wildlife Trust. Its horizontally stratified Torridian sandstone cliffs provide nesting grounds for 200,000 seabirds during the summer including puffins, guillemots, razorbills and great skuas.
The island is only accessible by boat which operates from Tarbet (signposted from the A894) from April to early September, Mon-Sat from 9am. The last return from the island is 4.30pm. Crossings are on demand and will depend on the weather. A six kilometre circular path takes you round the island and it is recommended that you stay on the path at all times so avoid disturbing the birds. Check the weblink right for more information.