The Churchill Barriers on East Mainland Orkney
Wrecks are eerie relics from WWII off the Churchill Barriers
The Italian Chapel created by Prisoners of War using concrete they had in abundance
Two Nissen huts formed the body of the church
The interior was exquisitely decorated by hand by Chiochetti
The central painting was taken from a postcard Chiochetti carried with him through the war
Beaches on the Deerness Peninsula
Coastal walks at Mull Head on the Deerness Peninsula
The Gloup at Mull HeadMuch of the interest in East Mainland lies in either Neolithic and Iron Age history or World War history. East Mainland is connected to Burray and South Ronaldsay by the Churchill Barriers and it is the purpose of these and the attacks during the wars that has shaped what we see here today.
East Mainland continues east of Kirkwall to the Deerness peninsula as well as south where the islands of Burray and South Ronaldsay were joined to Mainland during the war when the Churchill Barriers were built by prisoners of war to defending Scapa Flow against the Germans.
Scapa Flow is naturally sheltered from the Orkney islands that surround it. From the early 20th century Scapa Flow had been used by the military for exercises and later it played a much more strategic role during World War I and World War II.
During World War II the seas between Mainland, Burray and South Ronaldsay were ringed with the Churchill Barriers. Built by largely Italian Prisoners of War the Barriers were erected after the Royal Oak disaster. Even though blockships had been sunk to make access more difficult in Worl War I these had shifted with the tides and the Germans took full advantage by mounting an attack in 1939 at a time when there were 50 British battleships moored in Scapa Flow. The Royal Oak was hit and sank within 15 minutes with the loss of 833 crew. The idea was to seal off the eastern entrance to Scapa Flow to prevent further attack. Initially finding enough labour was a problem until Prisoners of War were brought in to lay the 50,000 concrete blocks needed for the Barriers.
The Barriers took four years to complete. You can now drive across the causeways that link the islands. As you do you'll see the remains of some of the blockships and wrecks that are a poignant memory of the horrors of war.
A charming story surrounding the Italian prisoners of war relates to the Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm. Camp 60 was one of the camps built to house the Prisoners of War working on the Barriers. These were pretty bleak places in which the workers were housed in pretty uninspiring Nissen huts. The creative Italians used what they had at their disposal and in huge quantities - concrete. They made paths and
The chapel stands today just before you cross Scapa Flow to Burray and is signposted from the main road. It is made out of two Nissen huts which form the main body of the chapel with a concrete faade with its archway and pillars giving it an authentic chapel appearance. Domenico Chiocchetti is credited with making the statue of St George and the dragon that stands outside the chapel from barbed wire and concrete as well as the beautiful paintings on the wall and roof inside the chapel. The symbolism wrapped up in the statue was to represent the killing of all misunderstandings between people of different cultures. The chapel is well worth a visit to see the paintings for yourself.
The chapel is usually open during daylight hours and still carries out services. Some of the paintwork was restored by Chiochetti in 1960 when he returned for a BBC programme. Contributions are welcomed for its continued restoration and a booklet is available (honesty box for payment) which tells you all about the construction of the chapel and the Italian soldiers who worked here during the war. It is a truly inspiring and touching story and a lovely peaceful place to visit.
Just north of the Italian Chapel is the Iron Age chamber, Mine Howe. It was first opened officially in 1946 although many local people already knew about it. It was reopened in 1999 and received much media attention, especially as The Time Team held a four-week excavation in 2000.
The site was confirmed as being Iron Age in origin and consists of two steep staircases down to a subterranean chamber with a high corbelled roof. There are also two side chambers. Theories as to its purpose have been varied and it is believed there would have been a building above ground connected to it and that it would have had a spiritual purpose. Find out more about Minehowe and the 2000 Time Team excavations from the Okneyjar pages, links right.
The Paterson family who discovered Minehowe open the site to visitors. You can go into the chamber itself and there is an Exhibition and Visitor Centre. Opening times are until end of May Weds-Sun11am-3pm. Daily from Jun-Aug 11am-5pm. 1-10 September 11am-4pm, 12-30 September Sundays and Wednesday only 11am-2pm. They do try to accommodate everyone as best they can and ask that large groups ring in advance. Tel: 01856 861234 or 01856 861209. Mine Howe is signposted just off the A960. Check their website for more information.
While you're heading out to Mine Howe carry on further east and you ll come to the Deerness Peninsula. The cliffs around Mull Head are good for watching seabirds from May to August including kittwakes, guillemots, razorbills and puffins. As you take the coastal walk from Mull Head Local Nature Reserve car park you'll pass the huge chasm known ad The Gloup. This is a collapsed cave from which eerie sounds rise up. These are just the sounds of birds and waves but being echoed through the deep cave makes them sound very peculiar.
Views across the sea from Mull Head look out to the uninhabited island, Copinsay which is owned by the RSPB who manage it as a bird reserve. The island supports huge colonies of breeding seabirds including fulmars, puffins, kittwakes, guillemots and razorbills. You can also see grey seals who haul out on the island. The island may not be accessible for everyone so contact the reserve on tel: 01856 850176 to check first. Day trips run from Skaill on Mainland Orkney. Contact S Foubister for more details. Tel: 01856 741252.
The Brough of Deerness is further round the coastal walk to the east on top of grassy cliff. This was a 10th century Norse or Pictish monastic site which is now only accessible via a narrow, steep path where a bridge once joined the mainland to the promontory.